47 Montauk Hwy.
East Hampton, NY
631-329-9821

 

Most people out here have frequented this pan-Asian hotspot before – to sip cocktails and feast on sushi by a sleek wrap-around bar, to chat with the Thursday evening crowd and bounce along to a thumping bass. During the doldrums of winter months, it seems the only lively place to spend an evening. During the summer months, it is swarming with cars, the bar packed with chic hipsters holding Sake-tinis. Nestled on Montauk Highway, Bamboo has no doubt become a staple in the nightlife scene over the years, but if you haven’t taken a moment to sit down for a meal, it’s time.
This is exactly what I did last Thursday, with my friends Robin and Christian and a few others who stopped in for a casual drink or quick snack.
After chatting with our waitress, Dominique, who described a few daily specials and enthusiastically recommended a few of her favorites, we placed our order. Rather than the usual sushi assortments, which are competent to be sure, we decided on some more exotic choices to satiate our hunger.
The appetizers arrived promptly, dazzling us with that minimalist elegance common among most high-end Japanese establishments. In this vein, each dish at Bamboo is constructed with impeccable design and precise attention to detail as the assortment of sashimi dishes proved instantly, especially the paper thin fluke fanned out neatly over a handsome dish and prepared in a tart, zesty citrus sauce. The yellowtail sashimi was a tender fresh-tasting fish perfected by a delectable ponzu sauce and a burst of jalapeño. The tuna tartare was served on a crisp, thin bread and topped with cubed tuna, roasted yellow peppers, crispy capers and dabbled with a wasabi Aioli. Although a bit strange in theory, this sashimi-pizza hybrid was as delicious as it was memorable.
After these impressive sashimi dishes were gobbled up voraciously, a second round of appetizers was placed before us. Of these, I recommend the succulent Peking duck spring rolls in Hoison sauce. The chicken satay – juicy skewers in a pungent peanut sauce – is perhaps a less interesting choice but a safe bet for less adventurous diners, as are the house salads and shumai options. Although exotic dishes are offered, like tiger shrimp tempura sticks or the lobster summer rolls, don’t overlook the obvious choices. Here, even standard miso soup is packed with edamame, chunks of tender tofu and lobster wontons. Another popular option on the menu of Asian-fusion fare is the tender five spice BBQ spare ribs.
Among the main courses (Large Plates) are crispy-skinned duck, Bang Bang Chicken, and pan-seared tuna served with grilled pineapple and avocado in a ginger-scallion sauce, all of which I recommend from past experience. Sliced Mongolian beef is another good pick, or the halibut in ginger sauce for healthier diners.
On this evening, Robin and I shared two of these large dishes. The first was a jumbo lemongrass shrimp over vegetables. Although aromatic and well seasoned, I felt the shrimp were overwhelmed by a smoky taste from the grill. Still, with a flavorful slaw of vegetables and tender meat, the overall effect was successful.
And then, the peak of my meal, of my week, perhaps – Miso Black Cod… These words have almost divine status in the culinary world, but the dish demands precise execution. In this case, the tender, melt-in-your-mouth cod was cooked to an immaculate consistency and glazed in a subtle harmony of miso and spices. And while this attractive fillet might seem too precious to destroy at first, take a taste. You will devour it with glee. Clean, simple, delicate, delicious. I usually try not to sound too effusive, but this dish will have you on your knees and chanting.
The desserts, which came with a second round of drinks were equally impressive. While the rich chocolate mousse was a bit too heavy for the summer evening, I found the ginger infused crème brulee delightful.
For those who thought of Bamboo as just some other swanky bar, this review might have come as a surprise. However, the culinary excellence should be expected considering the pedigree in the kitchen, an impressive team led by sushi chef Morgansan Yao, who worked at Manhattan’s Nobu (the Mecca of Japanese cuisine as far as I’m concerned).
The chic décor is another point of interest, with an entranceway that weaves through ceiling-high bamboo and a dimly-lit dining area with romantic booths. (Great for dates!) Plus, the martinis are glorious; the waitstaff is hot and friendly, and the music’s always pumping. And one more thing – it’s unpretentious, balancing sleek elegance with casual fun.
Appealing to both the summer crowd and the year-rounders, Bamboo has become an indispensable part of the culinary experience in the Hamptons. Just make sure to get there early enough, as the crowds get loud, and sometimes a little rowdy. Of course, this might be a good thing, especially come February.
Bamboo is open 7 days, 5:30-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Wed., 5:30-11 p.m. Thrus., Fri. & Sat. 5:30-midnight.
–Julia Nasser