Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

The warm, early summer days of September are filled with a wondrous supply of sweet sun-ripened tomatoes, smooth purple and white eggplants, tiny yellow pear and heirloom tomatoes, bright yellow summer squash, crisp cucumbers, chioga beets, sweet red peppers, numerous corn varieties and the sweetest, best peaches ever at our local farm stands. Driving past farmers markets and fields of bright yellow sunflowers you will encounter a virtual kaleidoscope of colors. It is easily the best time of the year to plan a simple meal.
Vegetables have held their own as a main event for some time and are certainly no longer considered a mere side dish. A vegetable Napoleon of crispy, baked eggplant and slices of zucchini, tomatoes, mozzarella, and fresh herbs layered in a colorful arrangement can be terrific for luncheon or a light supper. I’ve never been a fan of cold pasta salads – true to my Italian experiences – but I’m a huge fan of pasta alla Panzanella; named for the famous Tuscan bread salad combining tomatoes, basil and onions. For pasta in the manner of Panzanella, the fresh uncooked ingredients are dressed with extra-virgin olive oil and served over hot cooked pasta. This is truly an amazing combination and one that brings back memories of many trips to Italy.
For dessert I will look toward David Cruces simple peach salad. I met David, the executive chef of Annona in Westhampton Beach, at the James Beard Foundation’s Chefs and Champagne event earlier in the summer, where he shared his piquant peach recipe with me.

ROAST VEGETABLE NAPOLEON WITH ROSEMARY
Rosemary sprigs act as skewers to hold the Napoleon together. The Napoleons can be completely layered ahead and baked before serving.
Serves 4 - 6

2 small eggplants, about 1 pound, sliced crosswise, about 1/2-inch thick
3 small zucchini, about 3/4 pound, sliced crosswise, about 1/2-inch thick
Coarse (kosher) salt
Extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground pepper
2 medium red onions, sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
4-6 ripe (but not overripe) heirloom tomatoes
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 pound fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/4-inch slices
4-6 tall rosemary sprigs

1. Layer eggplant and zucchini slices in a colander and sprinkle each layer with salt. Cover with paper towel and weight down the vegetables. Let stand for 30 minutes or so to drain the bitter juices. Rinse and pat dry with paper towels.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
2. Place eggplant slices on a sil-pat or parchment paper-lined cookie sheet, brush lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes until golden and crisp. Remove from oven and transfer to a side dish. Place zucchini and onion slices on the same lined cookie sheet, oil and season with thyme leaves, salt and pepper and bake for 8-10 minutes until vegetables are lightly caramelized. Transfer to a side dish.
3. Begin with an eggplant base on the lined cookie sheet, top with a slice of mozzarella, zucchini, onion, tomato, mozzarella, zucchini, onion and tomato and finish with eggplant. Make a hole in the center of the Napoleon with a wooden or metal skewer. Select tall rosemary sprigs, at least one-inch taller than the Napoleons and remove bottom leaves from each sprig. Insert 1 sprig into each Napoleon and bake in preheated oven about 5-7 minutes or until cheese is melted and vegetables are heated through. Serve warm.

PASTA IN THE MANNER OF PANZANELLA

Panzanella is the traditional name of a Tuscan bread salad of tomato, basil and onions. Here the ingredients are uncooked and served cold over hot pasta.
Serves 6-8

1 large red onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 1/2 pounds ripe fresh tomatoes (not overripe)
About 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Plus:
2 bunches arugula, large stems removed, wash very well and spin dry
20-25 large leaves of fresh basil, wash very well and gently towel dry
1 pound dried penne or other tubular pasta
2 tablespoons coarse (kosher) salt for pasta water

1. Put the coarsely chopped onion in a bowl of cold water for 20-30 minutes. Meanwhile cut the tomatoes into 1-inch pieces and put them in a crockery or glass bowl. Drain the onions and place in a clean kitchen towel. Squeeze out excess moisture then place over the tomatoes. Scatter the finely chopped garlic over onions and top with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper (do not mix). Cover bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour or longer.
2. When ready to serve bring 4-5 quarts water to a rolling boil, adding 2 tablespoons coarse (kosher) salt to water. Slip in penne all at once stirring gently to separate. Cover and return water to a boil. Uncover and cook for 8-12 minutes depending on the brand or until al dente.
3. Mix the salad ingredients just before the pasta is cooked.
4. Meanwhile place arugula and basil leaves on a large platter. When the pasta is done, drain it in a colander, shaking off excess moisture and place over the greens. Immediately distribute the cold sauce over top. Toss to mix everything together and serve.

DAVID CRUCES’ SIMPLE PEACH SALAD
David Cruces is the executive chef of Annona in Westhampton Beach.
Serves 4

4 ripe, but not overripe, peaches
1/4 pound Pecorino cheese, cut into chunks
6 large fresh mint leaves, torn into pieces
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
Aged balsamic vinegar

1. Rinse peaches and pat dry with paper towels. With a sharp knife cut peaches in half around the pit. Discard pits. Slice peaches into wedges and place in a mixing bowl with the Pecorino and mint. Season lightly with salt and pepper then drizzle enough oil to barely coat the peaches. Toss very gently to mix and transfer to a serving bowl. Garnish the fruit with droplets of your best aged balsamic vinegar and serve.