Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

Have you noticed that when you order tuna in a restaurant the waiter or waitress always indicates that the chef prefers to cook the tuna rare? Meaning the tuna will be seared over high heat whether for a pan saute or under a salamander – professional broiler – and will be raw through the center. Tuna is one of those foods in which its savory flavor and texture depends on rareness. If tuna is cooked through, you might just as well prepare tuna salad from a can – which I certainly enjoy from time to time – rather than pay the premium price for fresh, sashimi quality tuna that will no doubt set you back. Your trusted fishmonger should only have available rosy pink, not brownish, tuna with moist translucency.

My choice for cooking thick, lean tuna, cut from the loin, is to grill or pan sear. With fresh, local tomatoes still at our fingertips, I selected grilled tuna with tomato mint vinaigrette. The acidity in the vinaigrette is a perfect foil to balance tuna’s richness. For pan seared tuna with spinach and mint – more ways to use the mint taking over a patch of the garden – charred slices are presented on a bed of sautéed baby spinach and topped with a tower of piquant sautéed onions flavored with red wine vinegar and hot pepper flakes. Yum, yum!

GRILLED TUNA WITH TOMATO MINT VINAIGRETTE
Tuna is a rich, fatty fish that can take strong seasonings. The acidity in the vinaigrette is the perfect foil to balance tuna’s richness.
Serves 6

For the tuna
1 1/2 pounds sashimi quality tuna cut from the loin
Juice of 1 lime
Coarse (kosher) salt
1 tablespoon coarsely ground pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil

Tomato mint vinaigrette
3-4 scallions, white and light green parts thinly sliced
1 tablespoon lime juice
2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf Italian
parsley
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
to taste
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4-5 very ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
Sprigs of mint for garnish, optional

Preheat wood or charcoal grill until coals are ashen hot or a gas grill to medium-high.

1. Have fishmonger cut the loin into six 1 1/4-inch thick slices. Film the tuna with oil and sprinkle with lime juice, salt and pepper. Marinate about 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the vinaigrette. In a mixing bowl, combine scallions, lime juice, mint and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Gradually whisk in olive oil. Add tomatoes and stir to mix. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary. Transfer to a serving bowl and set aside.

3. When coals are hot, put on the tuna steaks and grill about 3 minutes on one side and 1 1/2-2 minutes on the other side, until nicely charred on the outside and rare within. Let rest for 2-3 minutes, then slice tuna across the grain diagonally for presentation. Arrange overlapping slices, divided equally, on 6 plates. Stir vinaigrette to mix, then spoon equally across the slices. Garnish with mint sprigs if desired. Serve warm or at room temperature.

PAN SEARED TUNA WITH SPINACH AND MINT
Since tuna is best cooked rare, or at the very least, pink, buy the fish only from a trusted fishmonger.
Serves 4-6 as main course or 6-8 as appetizer

1 1/2 pounds fresh tuna, cut from the loin
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus more
to coat the tuna
1 1/2 pounds fresh baby spinach
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
2 Spanish onions, thinly sliced
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
2-3 tablespoons water
Pinch hot dry chili pepper flakes
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves
Lime wedges for serving, optional

1. Have fishmonger cut the loin into six 1 1/4-inch slices. Film the tuna with oil and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, wash spinach in several changes of lukewarm water to discard any sand. Drain and pat dry in a clean kitchen towel. Place 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet and stir-sauté the spinach leaves for 2-3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

3. In the same skillet the spinach cooked, add 1 1/2 tablespoons oil and sauté onions until tender and lightly browned, about 6-8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add red wine vinegar, water, red pepper flakes and mint. Simmer over low heat for 6-7 minutes longer until onions are lightly caramelized. If necessary, cover pan to maintain moisture. Taste to adjust seasoning as necessary. Remove from pan and keep warm.

4. In the same skillet the onions cooked, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil and sear tuna over medium-high heat about 3 minutes on one side and 1 1/2-2 minutes on the other side until nicely charred on the outside and rare within.

5. To serve: While tuna is cooking, warm the spinach and equally mound on 4-6 plates. Let tuna rest for 2-3 minutes, then slice across the grain on the diagonal for presentation. Arrange slices of tuna around the spinach. Top with a mound of onions and garnish with chopped mint. Serve with lime wedges if desired.