Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column
There is hardly anything that brings tradition closer
to home than preparing a loved one’s family recipe. This is what
happens when Joseph Aversano of East Hampton bakes his mother’s
Neapolitan Easter Pie. Like his mother Nancy, Joseph likes to bake multiple
pies. His mother baked 3 or 4 mini-pies so that she could share them
with friends and family on Easter Sunday. Mrs. Aversano adapted the
classic Pastiera, the Neapolitan Easter cake, made with the soft wheat
kernels that appropriately represent spring. Joseph’s maternal
grandfather preferred the cake without the grain and as a result, the
heirloom recipe was born.
Joseph’s family recipe reminded me of a delectable Italian dessert
that I enjoyed when I visited a farm in Assisi, some years ago. The
farmer’s wife prepared Torta di Nonna, grandmother’s tart,
consisting of a delicious custard filled cookie-like pastry crust, topped
with toasted pignoli nuts. This is a tale of two pies for your Easter
table.
NANCY AVERSANO’S NEAPOLITAN
EASTER PIE
Adapted from the original Pastiera, this Neapolitan ricotta pie has
strong traditions at Easter. Recipe can be divided in half for one pie.
Yields 2, 10-inch pies
For the dough
4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
4 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
12 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
3/4 cups sugar
3 eggs
Pinch of salt
For the custard
2 cups milk
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 cup sugar
3 eggs
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
For the Filling
10 eggs, beaten
3 pounds ricotta cheese
1 cup milk
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
6 tablespoons anisette
Grated peel of 1 whole lemon
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1. Put the flour and baking powder in a mixing bowl and make a well.
Add remaining ingredients and quickly combine using a dough scraper.
Wrap dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for an hour or so.
2. For the custard, scald the milk in a saucepan and discard surface
skin. Whisk in pieces of butter and melt into the hot milk. Beat the
eggs; add sugar and flour, stirring in the same direction. Slowly whisk
in the scalded milk mixture, then transfer the contents to the top of
a double boiler over simmering water. Cook, stirring for several minutes,
until the custard thickens slightly. Transfer to a bowl to cool, and
cover the surface with plastic wrap.
3. For the filling, beat the eggs in a large bowl and add remaining
ingredients. Fold in the cooled custard until thoroughly combined.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
4. Cut the dough in half and place dough between two pieces of parchment
paper. Roll each piece into a round disk about 13 inches in diameter.
Remove the top piece of parchment and flip the pastry into a 9 x 2 inch
springform pan. Continue with second piece of dough. Divide the filling
mixture and pour into each dough-lined pan. Roll out remaining pieces
of dough, cut into 1/2-inch wide strips and place them over the filling
in a crisscross pattern. Place the pies in the oven and bake for 1 1/2
hours. Allow to cool in the pan. Bake the pies one day ahead for maximum
flavor.
TORTA DI NONNA
Grandmother’s tart
There could be many different grandmother versions of Torta di Nonna
Serves 6-8
For the pastry
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 egg plus 1 egg yolk
1/3 cup sugar
Pinch of salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
For the pastry cream
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons sugar
2 eggs plus 2 egg yolks
2 cups cold milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Grated orange rind
1 1/2 tablespoons of dark rum
1/4 cup toasted pignoli nuts for garnish
For the dough
Melt butter in a saucepan and let stand until tepid, about 10 minutes.
1. Place flour on a large work board in a mound and make a well large
enough to accommodate the remaining pastry ingredients. Put in the eggs,
sugar, salt, vanilla and the melted butter. With a fork, stir ingredients
to mix well then carefully start to incorporate the flour from the inner
wall until a mass is formed. Knead the dough briefly until a ball of
dough is formed. Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate for 30-40 minutes.
2. For the pastry cream, combine flour and sugar in a mixing bowl and
make a well. Add egg yolks and whisk until ingredients are thoroughly
incorporated and the yolks are pale in color. Slowly whisk in a few
tablespoons of cold milk and stir to mix. Add remaining milk, vanilla
and orange rind while mixing steadily. Transfer to a heavy saucepan
and place over moderate heat. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon, always
in the same direction, until mixture is thick enough to coat the spoon,
about 15 minutes. Do not allow custard to boil and remove from heat.
Transfer to a glass or crockery bowl and stir to cool. Add the rum and
stir to mix.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
3. Place pastry on a 13-inch square of wax paper and cover with another
square of equal size. Carefully roll out the pastry to approximately
12-inches in diameter. Remove the top waxed paper and discard. With
the aid of the bottom paper, flip the pastry into a 10-11-inch buttered
pie plate or removable, bottom metal quiche pan: allow extra dough to
hang over the edges and crimp. If dough breaks it can be easily patched.
Chill dough if necessary.
4. Pour in the cooled pastry cream; scatter the toasted pignoli nuts
all over the top and bake on a cookie sheet in the preheated oven for
15-20 minutes until custard is firm to the touch. If custard begins
to brown before it is set, cover with a tent of foil. Remove from oven
and cool on a baking rack. Cut into wedges for serving.
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