| Issue #33, November 10, 2006 |
Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column
With Thanksgiving just a couple of weeks away it’s time to get organized. There is the turkey that you have no doubt already ordered, but that is only the beginning. Years ago, I gave classes called “Thanksgiving Trimmings.” A successful class that was repeated many times as all the dishes surrounding the centerpiece turkey could be made ahead. Do-ahead is always music to the ear of any cook.
While I do not advocate freezing as a rule, fully-cooked soups and pastry dough for pies and tarts can be successfully frozen and defrosted overnight in the refrigerator. Cranberries, the ubiquitous sauce at the Thanksgiving table, are rich in pectin, which is why, when cooking them, they quickly thicken to a purée. Select your favorite recipe and prepare up to a week or more ahead then place directly in a serving bowl, cover and refrigerate. There are also vegetable dishes such as carrot and butternut squash gratin, a homey dish flavored with cumin and a kick of Tabasco; and puréed sweet potatoes and apples with candied walnuts that can be prepared ahead in its entirety and baked before serving. For a timely vegetable, par-cook Brussels sprouts and toast a batch of hazelnuts one or two days before to finish in a quick flavorful sauté.
With the help of autumn’s locally grown fresh bounty you can easily turn out delectable dishes with foolproof results.
CARROT AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH GRATIN
Serves 6-8
1 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced
3 cups peeled and sliced carrots
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup chicken stock
1/2 teaspoon cumin
Dash Tabasco
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
Finely chopped parsley for garnish
1. Prepare the vegetables for cooking and place in a saucepan with water to cover. Bring to the edge of a boil then simmer over medium heat for 15-20 minutes until tender. Drain the vegetables and transfer to bowl of food processor (fitted with steel knife) or a blender. Add butter and process or blend until combined but not puréed. Scrape down sides as necessary. Add broth and seasonings and process or blend to mix to a chunky purée. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary.
2. Transfer contents to a lightly buttered gratin dish. Can be done ahead to this point. Refrigerate, covered for up to two days, if prepared ahead.
3. When ready to serve, preheat oven to 350 degrees and bake gratin for 15-20 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH HAZELNUTS AND THYME
Serves 6-8
1/2 cup hazelnuts
2 pounds fresh Brussels sprouts, rinsed and trimmed
2 teaspoons coarse (kosher) salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
1. Place hazelnuts on a cookie sheet and toast in preheated oven until brown, about 10-12 minutes. Wrap warm hazelnuts in a clean kitchen towel and rub to loosen the skins as well as possible. Remove from towel and chop coarsely.
2. Cut a shallow crisscross in the core of each sprout. Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Put in salt and oil and add Brussels sprouts. Boil uncovered until bright green, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Drain and cool quickly under a spray of cold water to stop the cooking then pat dry in a clean kitchen towel. Can be prepared up to one day ahead to this point.
3. When ready to serve, melt butter in a large, heavy skillet over high heat until golden brown. Add Brussels sprouts and thyme and stir until heated through. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warm serving dish and garnish with toasted hazelnuts.
SWEET POTATOES WITH APPLES AND WALNUTS
Serves 8-10
6-7 sweet potatoes or yams, about 3 pounds
Coarse (kosher) salt for the cooking water
3 golden delicious apples, peeled, cored and cubed
1/2 cup water
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup half and half
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon (or to taste) coarse (kosher) salt
1/3 cup walnut pieces, lightly toasted*
8-10 candied walnut halves for decoration* (optional)
1. Put potatoes in a large saucepan with water to cover and bring to a boil. Add about 1 tablespoon salt and cook with cover ajar at a gentle boil for 35-40 minutes until tender. Drain in a colander. When cool enough to handle but still warm, peel and cut into 1-inch chunks.
2. Meanwhile, combine apples, water and 2 tablespoons butter in a separate saucepan and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally until mixture resembles a coarse purée.
3. Purée the potatoes into a large bowl by passing them through a food mill fitted with the medium disc. Then purée the apples adding them to the potatoes. Add remaining tablespoon butter, half and half, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and toasted walnut pieces and stir to mix. Taste to adjust seasoning as necessary. Transfer mixture to a shallow baking-serving dish. Can be prepared one or two days ahead to this point.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
4. When ready to serve bring the sweet potato purée to room temperature. Bake in the upper-third of preheated oven for 25 minutes. Decorate with candied walnut halves if desired and serve at once.
*To toast walnuts: spread nuts on a cookie sheet and bake in a 350 degree oven for 5 minutes. Cool.
*To candy walnut halves: Melt 1/3-cup sugar with 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in a small skillet. Stir until sugar is dissolved and mixture is foamy. Add walnuts, stir to coat evenly and remove from heat. Let cool and use for decoration or snack.
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