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  Issue #50, March 23, 2007

The Garden At Rock Cottage

Beautiful Gardens from Seed

by Lance Brilliantine

While it is easier to buy seedlings than grow plants from seeds, nature provides all that is needed to grow plants successfully from seed. Yet, many gardeners are disappointed with trying seeds because they over care for them, or miss out on an essential ingredient.

Over the years, we have found it worthwhile to start some seeds by waiting until the weather has warmed and planting many directly in the garden. Others benefit from an indoor or greenhouse start if they take a long time to grow and bloom.

There is no rule on where to start seeds and I am not really sure of the reasons and benefits that go into determining what to start indoors. Mostly, I have learned from trial and error and know which seeds I have luck with. For example, I never start impatiens from seeds because it is easier to buy them from a nursery. Similarly, I never start petunias from seed (they are too difficult). However, I always start zinnias directly in the garden (they grow so quickly and are highly successful this way). I do start hollyhocks, delphiniums, Echinacea, and marigolds indoors. They benefit from the jumpstart and we get stronger plants and larger blooms as a result. Every gardener probably has his/her own preferences.

A general rule of thumb for starting seeds is six -to-eight weeks before the last frost date. Seed packets generally give an indication of indoor planting times and experimentation will help you fine tune timing. And you will find the essentials of good germination are quality seeds, soil, water and temperature.

Concerning seeds, buy seeds annually. Old seeds tend to provide marginal germination and results. You can test seed viability if you have time by counting and planting a few and then tracking the number that germinate. The resulting percentage is the expected germination rate.

Purchase sterilized seed-starting mixtures. These tend to be lighter in weight and have the nutrients needed. Experienced growers often create their own mixtures or amend store bought soil. Regardless of approach, make sure the medium is sterilized to avoid problems with molds and funguses - that just love to each new seedling.

Select growing containers of the right size. If too small, seedlings outgrow them quickly. Root bound seedlings do not provide maximum growth. We prefer making paper pots from newspapers that allow adequate space and also provide a safe environment (newspaper ink is slightly antibiotic). It later facilitates transfer of seedlings to the garden and reduces transfer shock (the paper disintegrates over the summer).

Fill containers with the seed-starting mix and water thoroughly. Make sure the soil is wet, but not soaking. Plant the seeds less deep than recommended on seed packets. Add a little more soil on top and water again.

Keep the soil moist, but not soaked and if at all possible, place the seeds where they will receive temperatures of about 70-80 degrees F, which seems the best range for most seeds. Seeds will germinate outside of their ideal range, but the further away from the ideal range for the particular seed, the lower the germination rate.

The time required to germinate seeds can be from a few days to several weeks. Germination times vary widely. Seed packets often indicate general germination time, but don’t be surprised if it takes longer. For annuals that do not have fragrance on their own, soaking the seeds overnight in rose or orange water before planting adds the fragrance to the seeds and to the flowers when they bloom.

Fungus problems are fairly common with seeds grown indoors. You can use a product called “Captan” to protect against mold and fungus growth, or buy pre-treated seeds, if available. Water seedlings in the morning only and from the bottom if possible to help avoid mold and fungal problems.

As soon as seedlings emerge, place them in a location where they will get direct light. Placing seedlings by a window with a southern exposure is best. Remember that seedlings get leggy when their main stem grows tall and thin. It is caused by insufficient sunlight and a sheltered environment. If this is occurring, try to increase light and also place a fan near the plants to provide some artificial wind. A slight breeze helps plants slow down their legginess.

Of course, planting seeds also extends the season somewhat and we are always excited to get things moving in March. We hope every gardener will try at least one packet of seeds this year.

You can contact Lance Brilliantine with any questions or comments at GardenLance@yahoo.com.

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