Well, at its base, it's a pretty simple thing. Once a wine has gone through primary fermentation--when the sugar found in wine grapes is converted into alcohol--this is a second fermentation where bacteria converts tart, fresh malic acid into softer, rounder lactic acid. It actually can happen during primary fermentation or after and can happen naturally or when a winemaker introduces a specific bacterium.

But let's get out of the lab and into reality. In even simpler terms, malolactic fermentation turns the acid that makes green apples tart and turns it into the acid found in milk--resulting in a softer, rounder mouthfeel and different flavors and aromas.

Even if you don't know about ML--as wine geeks like to call it--you've probably smelled it in your average glass of chardonnay. Especially if it's from California. Had a glass of dark gold Cali chard that smelled like buttered popcorn? That is the result of ML.

For many years, the round, fuller body of full ML dominated the American chardonnay scene. Luckily, people are getting sick of those unbalanced, flabby wines and local winemakers are taking heed.

Les Howard of Jamesport Vineyards is one such winemaker. He's released two new chardonnays-- both from the 2005 vintage--that show how judicious use of oak and ML can lead to a combination of rich flavors and food-friendly acidity. In fact, he says, "I have never liked overoaked chardonnay and I believe Long Island chardonnay should never go through complete malolactic fermentation. It is better with some malic and not too flat or buttery."

At $15, Jamesport Vineyards' 2005 East End Series Chardonnay is special for another reason too. Ten-percent of sales go to the Southold Project for Aquaculture Training (SPAT) program, which trains East End residents to become stewards of their environment and help revive the shellfish population in local waters. Fermented 70% in stainless steel tanks and 30% in oak barrels, this wine features a nice combination of apple, butterscotch and vanilla on the nose and similar with some added pear and citrus notes. Most importantly, the acidity is fresh and brings balance to the rich fruit and vanilla spice flavors.

For another five or so dollars, you can buy a bottle of Jamesport Vineyards' 2005 Reserve Chardonnay. The fermentation percentages are almost reversed here with only 21% fermented in stainless steel and the rest in oak. The difference is obvious from the moment it hits your glass--in the color, on the nose and on the palate. A slightly darker golden color, the aromas are less fruity and are dominated by toasted marshmallows and spice with a little pear and lemon peel in the background. Fuller bodied, the flavors are much more complex and layered--citrus, pear, vanilla, butterscotch and burnt sugar mingle nicely. Again, there is still nice acidity on the finish to balance a creamy mid-palate. Think of this wine as more California in style, but without the flabbiness and overwhelming butter character.

Look for both wines in your local wine shop, or visit www.jamesport-vineyards.com for more information and to order.