| CONTENTS for DAN'S PAPERS the week of April 27, 2007 |
| Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column
Michael Carr-Smith, an importer and distributor of New Zealand's South Pacific Wines based in New York City, showcased a fine selection of wines at a spring wine-tasting dinner held at Della Femina Restaurant in East Hampton. Wine pairing is an art in itself and Executive Chef Michael Rozzi of Della Femina, executed the challenge beautifully with a brilliant menu. Scallop carpaccio circled with Peruvian-inspired sweet potato foam and cilantro sprigs paired well with a crisp, earthy Rockburn Riesling. A plate of succulent swordfish fingers with Fava beans and onion was served with a refreshing, citrus, typically New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Duck confit crowned with crisp julienne of leek was a tasteful marriage of rich meat served with an equally rich Rockburn 2003 Pinot Noir. Delectably tender slices of California's Copper Ridge natural tenderloin of beef were presented with mouth-watering smashed fingerling potatoes and buttery haricot vert. With this piece de resistance, we sipped an outstanding Crossroads RGF 2002, a limited production, hand-harvested Bordeaux red wine -- the initials, RGF, are for Mr. Carr-Smith and his wife, Mei Fong's, three children, Rosemary, George and Francis. An unusual cucumber and shiso (Japanese herb) sorbet with toasted sesame seeds and black sea salt refreshed our palates as we toasted with a glass of exemplary Crossroads 2005 Chardonnay to an inspired wine dinner. HARICOT VERT IN BROWN BUTTER AND OIL Haricot
verte are skinny French green bush beans. Coarse
(kosher) salt 1. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil, add salt to taste and put in the beans. Cover the pot to bring the water back to the boil quickly. When the water boils, uncover the saucepan and cook over high heat about 4 minutes. They should be cooked until firm to the bite. Drain and place in ice water to cool and to keep their color. Drain and reserve until ready to serve. 2. Melt butter in a skillet just large enough to hold the beans and cook about 1 minute until butter browns lightly. Add the beans, season with salt and pepper to taste and toss just until heated through. Drizzle with olive oil and serve. SMASHED FINGERLING POTATOES WITH SCALLIONS Serves 4 1 1/2
pounds unpeeled fingerling potatoes, scrubbed clean 1. Put the scrubbed potatoes in a saucepan with cold water and cover by at least 2 inches. Cover pan, bring to a boil and add salt. Adjust heat and cook at a brisk simmer for 20-22 minutes or until potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a paring knife. Ladle out some of the potato water to reserve and drain potatoes. Return potatoes to the saucepan and mash coarsely with a potato masher. Add salt and pepper to taste, olive oil and a little potato water and mash again to a thick consistency. If too thick, add a little more potato water. 2. Add scallions and mash into the potato mixture. Serve warm. Note: If preparing ahead, place the saucepan in a deep skillet over simmering water and keep warm. TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH RED WINE REDUCTION The fillet can be grilled or pan sauteed. Serves 4-6 1 2-inch
thick tenderloin of beef (about 3 pounds), trimmed 1. Season the beef with a coating of salt, pepper, olive oil and crushed green peppercorns. If you can, place the meat on an extremely hot grill for 3-4 minutes then transfer it to a cooler part of the grill to cook until an instant meat thermometer, inserted into the thickest part of the meat, registers 125 degrees, for rare. Alternately, sear the meat in a very hot skillet with good heat retention (not non-stick) and sear for about 3-4 minutes on each side. Then reduce heat to medium-high and pan saute another 5-7 minutes or until an instant meat thermometer registers 125 degrees, for rare. Cook another couple of minutes until medium-rare, or 135 degrees internal temperature. 2. Pour wine into a small saucepan and reduce by half. If meat was grilled, add the veal stock to the wine, season with salt and pepper to taste and swirl in butter to round out the sauce. If meat was seared in a skillet, deglaze pan juices with the beef broth and reduce by half. Add wine reduction, salt and pepper to taste. Swirl in butter as above to finish the sauce. 3. Slice meat after a sufficient rest of about 10 minutes and spoon over wine reduction. Above recipes adapted from Executive Chef Michael Rozzi of Della Femina Restaurant.
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