A Salute to Saul Zabar Who Died at 97

Zabar’s, the legendary Upper West Side food emporium, is nearly a century old and among New York City’s most beloved institutions. Zabar’s bags were reportedly the second most popular in the city at one point. The name alone, not just the store, made people feel good.

Through it all, Zabar’s has remained a family-owned business, with family members at its heart and helm. The store’s longtime leader, Saul Zabar, died recently at age 97, prompting an outpouring of support.

“When my father passed, the outpouring we got from the community and across the globe was unbelievable,” Annie Zabar, Saul’s daughter and assistant vice president, said. “We got letters, emails, stories. The day he passed, customers came in crying, showing the manager photos they took with my dad.”

They put out a book for customers to sign, where people told stories about Saul and the store that the Zabar family had built and continues to operate.

“The store goes back 90 years. Customers who are 90 years old brought their children, and they brought their children,” Annie added. “That’s what we’re hoping for. Keep bringing the next generation in here.”

Saul had been president, while his brother Stanley—four years younger—was vice president and now leads the store. In addition to Annie, family members involved in day-to-day operations include Stanley’s son, David, who serves as executive director, working alongside many longtime employees.

“Saul’s pursuit of excellence defined not only his work, but his entire life,” Zabar’s General Manager Scott Goldshine said, noting that Saul’s “spirit will forever remain at the heart of Zabar’s.”

Founded at Broadway and 80th Street in 1934 by Louis and Lillian Zabar, Zabar’s became an iconic gourmet market known for high-quality smoked fish, fresh bagels, gourmet cheeses, international delicacies, and more.

“As stores vacated, they took over, and eventually they purchased the building,” Annie said. “The Upper West Side is a great community. The people here have been so supportive of us. We appreciate them. Hopefully, they appreciate us.”

Born and raised in New York City, Saul, as a 21-year-old University of Kansas student, was told his father had fallen ill. He left school—and his hopes of becoming a doctor—returning to Manhattan to join his brother, Stanley, and help run the business.

“They scrambled together to keep Zabar’s working,” Annie said.

Saul oversaw everything from smoked fish to cheese and coffee, ensuring products met uncompromising standards.

“My dad schooled the smokehouses on how to make a perfect product. He was very, very picky. They know what to expect,” Annie said. “And the coffee was my dad’s baby. Every Tuesday, coffee is delivered to the store. We lay it out on the table to make sure it’s exactly the way my father would like it.”

The family grew up—if not in the store, then near it—spending time there, working, and sometimes even during off hours.

“My father would take us to the smokehouses, the coffee roasters. We met the people he worked with. We got to climb on the burlap bags and got Yoo-hoo bars as treats,” Annie remembered. “We’d come into the store after hours on Sunday when he placed his fish orders.”

For decades, Saul greeted customers by name, as if everyone were a neighbor, not just a New Yorker. Annie talked about growing up at Zabar’s, going from K-12 to the Calhoun School on 81st and West End, even before it had a lunchroom.

“My brother Aaron and I would walk to Zabar’s, get a bagel with nova, and then go off to school,” Annie said. “We’d go out to Fire Island on weekends. On the way home, we’d pull over to the side of the road so my dad could place his fish orders.”

Murray Klein, who helped run day-to-day operations, was bought out in the 1990s and later passed away. Eli Zabar opened his own stores on the East Side, but Zabar’s only grew its flagship. Aaron Zabar is Senior Manager of the store and very much involved with the next generation for Zabars.

“Zabar’s can keep quality control in a single location,” Annie said. “Everything is shipped out of here. We want to concentrate on the one store.”

One-third of Zabar’s business is mail order, including big sellers such as coffee, smoked salmon, bagels, cream cheese, and gift baskets. “We just dropped our winter catalog,” Annie said.

She added that all the cousins have worked at Zabar’s, which is “keeping on keeping on” with “some things in the works,” but no plan to sell. “A legend passed,” Annie said. “We have big shoes to fill. We plan on filling them, continuing the business.”

Footage was shot for an unmade documentary, although completing it now might make even more sense. “What’s the ending?” Annie asked. “You can have somewhat of an ending because of my father’s passing, but it’s not the end of Zabar’s.”