North Fork Restaurant Review: Noah’s

Dinner at Noah’s gave me the excuse I’ve been waiting months for: an excursion to Greenport, the quaint harbor-side village on the North Fork. I finally got to see what everyone’s been talking about—historic homes, a beautiful marina, people having parties on boats and a village, with more than one main drag (imagine!), boutiques, ice-cream shops, pizza places and bars playing live music. Noah’s is right in the middle of it all, with outdoor seating and giant windows facing the lively Front Street.

The weather didn’t hold out for us, so my fellow food-taster and I sat indoors, where we were able to enjoy the view of lots of young couples and trios sipping Cucumber Margaritas and Blumenwassers (Aperol, St. Germain, Peach Purée and Gruet Sparkling) and ordering small plates at the large U-shaped bar. The atmosphere at Noah’s is lively, yet with high ceilings, blue-green walls and the large space, there’s also something very calming about it. With a full dining room on a Sunday evening and music playing softly we could still have a quiet conversation. We opted for “local” water, served in slender glasses, and began by tasting the French bread and very flavorful and salty butter while we glanced over the menu, noting the emphasis on local ingredients.

Known for their “seafood-inspired small plates and raw bar,” we were tempted to order a medley of local clams and oysters but once our waitress announced the specials I was sold on the striped bass entrée. We started out with an item from the “Tastes” menu—Moroccan Spiced Chick Pea Hummus. Served with warm pita triangles, the smooth hummus tasted of fresh garlic and was sprinkled with scallions and spices. Feeling the urge to be supportive of all things local, I ordered a glass of Paumanok Dry Rosé and was delighted by it’s orange-pink (sunset, I thought) color and more so by it’s fresh, bright aroma and dry finish. It went perfectly with what came next: Satur Farm Wild Arugula Salad. Made with local strawberries, just at the end of their short, yet sweet, season, soft goat cheese and pistachios, each bite was extraordinarily tasty and balanced. The balsamic vinegar and olive oil were of very high quality—the kind from which there’s no turning back for salad lovers.

We then tried the LI Clam Chowder, which was made with steamed local Little Necks (rather than your usual “chowder clams”), fingerling potatoes, herbs and a touch of cream. Light and with a hint of fennel, this chowder was exceptionally fresh.

For the main course, we had the Local Catch Fish and Chips, which were battered in Greenport Harbor Beer, and served with hand-cut fries, three-cabbage slaw and an incredibly scrumptious rémoulade that took the place of tartar sauce or malt vinegar. The beer-batter shell encasing the white fish was crispy and thick, and made for a hearty and rich meal. On the lighter side, the Striped Bass special was our favorite. In a deep plate, the fish sat atop a hill of soft ribbons of yellow squash and green zucchini, flavored by a surrounding base of tomato and basil. The bass was flakey and firm, cooked to perfection and each bite had the essence of the tomato basil broth.

We concluded with the Key Lime Pie. Tangy and zesty like a fresh lime margarita, the pie came in a rectangular shape with a dollop of homemade whipped cream. It was refreshing and the perfect note to end on.

Next time I’m at Noah’s, I’m planning to try more of the small bites—particularly the Jumbo Lump 100% Crab Cake and the Filet Mignon Sliders that I caught a glimpse (and an enticing truffle oil whiff) of at a neighboring table.

For a night out on the town, folks can head to The Lounge @ Noah’s for music, drinks and late night fare. The Lounge is open Friday and Saturday nights from 11 p.m. ’til 2 a.m., July 4 through Labor Day.

Noah’s, 136 Front Street, Greenport is open seven days a week, serving lunch, dinner and brunch on weekends. 631-477-6720, chefnoahs.com.