Something to Wine About: 2020 Brooklyn Oenology Broken Land 

2020 Brooklyn Oenology Broken Land
2020 Brooklyn Oenology Broken Land

It’s time for something completely different: 2020 Brooklyn Oenology Broken Land, aka orange wine. If you’re looking to try something both ancient and unique, look no further than orange wine.

A brief history of orange wine: Orange wine has roots dating back thousands of years to regions in the current day country of Georgia. In the last 20 years, orange wine has experienced a rebirth. It’s produced from white wine grapes with skin contact. Rosé is produced from red wine grapes and skin contact. But that is where any similarity ends. Orange wine has longer skin contact than rosé, and that contact imparts much more than just a tint of color. That contact gives orange wine strong, structured tannins and a robust bold taste.

Tasting notes for an orange wine are quite different than red, white or rosé. Words like sour, funk or notes of bruised apple are not unexpected. It is suggested that orange wine should be served chilled, though some suggest serving it less chilled than white wine.

Broken Land — the literal English translation of “Breuckelen,” the original Dutch name for Brooklyn — is created by Long Island winemaker Alie Shaper of Brooklyn Oenology. Pinot gris, gewürztraminer and sauvignon blanc varietals are present in this wine, but don’t look for the expected flavors of any of these wines. Instead, one might taste orange zest, nuts and saffron.

This wine is reminiscent of cognac. Pairing suggestions from Chronicle Wines are pork, robust fish, squash, pasta with white sauce, melon with figs and prosciutto, roasted vegetables or medium-bodied cheeses. But don’t rule out dark chocolate. Again, the serving suggestion is to chill it less than white wine, but this wine is savory and bold — so savory and bold that it sips delightfully over ice. The ice slightly softens the tannins.

Orange wine can also be used to create wine cocktails.

The 2020 Brooklyn Oenology Broken Land retails for $30.

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