A Silver Lining In Southampton

JNSQ rosé.

Eric Miller, who received accolades for his uber-popular Bay Kitchen and Bar on Three Mile Harbor, gave up that space this summer after seven years when his lease was up, and is readying his new project, Silver Lining Diner, which is being built on the bones of Southampton’s legendary Princess Diner.

“We needed a bigger space for our catering and the season was short there,’’ explained Miller, whose partners in the venture include architect Jeffrey Beers, hedge fund manager Richard Silver, and his entrepreneurial wife MT Carney, who heads the marketing firm Untitled.

“I didn’t want to lead a seasonal life anymore; I like to cook game in the fall, to cook in all seasons. We wanted to offer farm-to-table and sea-to-table at an accessible price point — three meals a day, seven days a week. We have been working on getting this diner space for two-and-a-half years. It’s taking us a while to finally open, but we expect to be here for 20 years or so,” Miller added.

There will be some carryover dishes such as Bay Kitchen’s Clam Bake with lobster, steamers, mussels, corn, and potatoes, but the plate, which cost $49 there, will be $29 at the diner. Other options will include rotisserie Crescent Farm duck with roasted yams and summer vegetables; local fluke with kale, spinach, and long grain rice; and an array of house-smoked meats including brisket, ribs, and pastrami. There will also be a range of jams made on premises, and an emphasis on baked goods.

Miller said, “I hired a wonderful baker and we will do everything from scratch; we are even making muffins that are almost all top!’’ Look for those to come in banana, oatmeal, streusel, peach, and strawberry, along with an over-the-top coconut cake and a signature cinnamon babka bun. Move over cronuts!

Meanwhile, Bostwick’s, which originally occupied the Bay Kitchen space, has reclaimed its former home, finally opening a much-anticipated, more upscale offshoot in late June, while retaining its busy spot on 27 in East Hampton. Among the offerings: Crab Louis made with jumbo lump blue claw crabmeat; burrata with fresh peaches, figs, baby arugula, and balsamic reduction; local fluke with citrus gremola, Champagne beurre blanc and summer vegetables; and a Montauk beer boil made with shellfish, sausage, and Montauk Summer Ale. Said a spokesman for the restaurant, “We are still working out some kinks but we are really happy to be back home.’’

Chef Jay Lippin left his post as chef at Baron’s Cove just before the July 4 holiday, but sous chef Luke Andrews, who was most recently at Little Red, stepped into his role, and managed to pull off the unchanged menu seamlessly. Andrews noted, “I will be adding new dishes later in the summer.’’

Rosé is particularly appealing as a summer wine and a dinner party gift because of its upbeat hue as well as its light, crisp taste, but if you are looking for a real show stopper, the JNSQ comes in a bottle that looks like it could be Lalique, complete with a rose on top. It’s available at McNamara Liquors in Bridgehampton.

If cocktails are your preference, Mark Noonan is mixing up some impressive ones at Highway in Wainscott. Noonan, who began his career at Kitchen Night Club in Dublin, owned by Bono and The Edge, went on to work at The Plaza, Minetta Tavern, and The Nomad. His Hamptons concoctions include Kentucky Buck, a variation on a Moscow Mule made with bourbon; Vodka Maid, with cucumber, mint, citrus, and vodka; and Watermelon Tequila Crush, with spicy agave and citrus.

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