Chef Matty Boudreau Talks Swords, Santa and the Holiday Season

Share some of your favorite holiday food traditions from growing up, and from your family today.
My mom fell asleep one year when we were kids, while baking cookies for Santa, so instead of cookies on Christmas morning, we saw that Santa ate some of the uncooked cookie dough. We’ve never baked for the man since. She also always had a pink Christmas tree, so to keep with the pink spirit, my sister and I started bringing rosé champagne to open stockings.

What is the one food or dish that defines the holiday season for you?
Holly Browder’s turkey is, hands down, the perfect bird. I love to confit the legs and smoke the breasts. It’s my favorite dish to serve family and friends.

What is the secret to creating the perfect food-and-wine pairing?
Always have a stash—one bottle of vino is never enough.

What goes into creating your fall and winter menus for the restaurant?
I find that cold weather means people want more substance, but are still health-conscious, so by making food feel more stodgy it turns into a special treat. At Green Hill Kitchen we have smoked and braised root veggies, and spiced, roasted local blackfish with collard greens, just to name a few new favorites on the menu.

What is the best holiday gift you’ve ever received, and why?
My partner, Lianne, gave me a champagne saber one year, and to date it’s my favorite present. Why? It’s a bleeping sword that opens champagne bottles. Thank you, Lianne! Love you.

How do you enjoy the fall and winter season when you’re not in the kitchen?
Being part of an underground organization, SHSC. The first rule of SHSC is that you don’t talk about it…oops! Best people and food, amazing gatherings!

What is your favorite holiday movie or TV special, and why?
Elf. Will Ferrell is the funniest man on the planet. I still love to yell out “SANTA!” just like he does in the film, and I do it all year round.

What is the best kind of holiday cookie?
They all taste the same dipped in my eggnog.

What do you love about the cooler-weather seasons and the holiday time of year here on the East End?
The lighting of the [Montauk] lighthouse is awesome. We try and go every year. This year’s Holidays in the Vines should be a new tradition for everyone who lives out east—it’s going to be epic.

For more on Green Hill Kitchen, visit greenhillny.com. For tickets and more information on Dan’s Holidays in the Vines, visit HolidaysInTheVines.com.