Chef Jennie Werts Says to Expect the Unexpected at Ellen's On Front in Greenport

North Fork chef Jennie Werts got her first summer restaurant gig chopping vegetables in the kitchen at the old Greenporter Hotel, where her big brother Andrew was bartending after college. As Andrew tells it, her first night on the job was enough for her to know that she was going to one day run her own kitchen.

The Making of Chef Jennie Werts

“She walked into my parents’ bedroom that night, after sitting there all night chopping, and said, ‘I’m gonna do this for the rest of my life,’” recalled Andrew. 

For the Wertz siblings – city kids who spent summers at their parents’ East Marion cottage – this was the beginning of a beautiful symbiotic relationship, one that would eventually come together in the form of a “cheeky” culinary adventure in Greenport called Ellen’s on Front.

“Jennie’s wanted to be a chef since she was 10,” Andrew said of his sister, whose work at Ellen’s (and elsewhere) has been noted by Florence Fabricant in The New York Times, as well as on the Food Network.

But just so Andrew was clear, his little sister gifted him an Anthony Bourdain book early on in her journey to make sure he understood her life’s ambition. 

“I’m driven by combining what’s familiar with what’s unexpected or different. The Pea Leaves and Crispy Quinoa salad, which has become a favorite amongst guests, really highlights that,” Chef Werts said. 

Oddly enough, Werts, a rising star on the North Fork scene, does not hail from a kitchen-savvy family. Andrew and her mother, Ellen, for whom the restaurant is named, has a fifth degree black belt in karate, but, according to Andrew, is less noted for her culinary talent.

“The thing she made was Jewish casserole, which is like lasagna in a glass bowl … and roast chicken and brown rice” that she would prepare for the family meal before heading out to the dojo, he said.

Eats at Ellen’s on Front

In fact, while the menu at Ellen’s on Front is full of surprising, chef-driven dishes that reflect an international range of culinary styles, flavors, and approaches, none of it was learned at home or through passed-down recipes. This seems right on brand for Ellen’s on Front, which is all about culinary mash-ups, light-hearted charm, and maybe even a few jokes at their own expense. 

“Whimsical, silly, cheeky,” Andrew said when asked to describe the vibe at Ellen’s. “Eating out in our opinion doesn’t have to be fun, but for us, it’s who we are. My sister and I are very silly people, a lot of jokes and laughing … good food doesn’t have to be a five-star plated thing, although that’s great … sometimes you just want to have a good time and talk and get to know people and not take things so seriously.”

This philosophy is evident in Werts’ menu at Ellen’s, which ranges from playful to “how’s she going to pull that off?” and incorporates a fusion-like palette highlighting original spins on some core Asian and Latino recipes.

Expect the unexpected, though, as there are items like grilled red-miso marinated spare ribs, Thai shrimp lettuce wraps, and her famous sweet tea brined fried chicken. Other flavor-collaborations that will certainly catch the interest of modern foodies include General Jennie’s cauliflower, cacio e pepe pastina, fried duck wings, Korean fried rice, and Rhode Island-style calamari with Thai basil.

“People are like, ‘This fried rice, is this a family recipe?’ and Jennie’s like, ‘My family is Jewish,’” deadpanned Andrew. 

While mother Ellen, 77, works the room two days a week in physical form, she’s there full-time in spirit: a fetching oil on canvas of her as a 16-year-old hangs above the bar.

“Ellen’s on Front is really about twists on foods, but still comfort food, American classics, so it’s things your mom made or your grandma made, but maybe with some twist or something different,” Andrew said. “The Asian flavors are there, the Latin flavors are there. Yuzu (Japanese citrus) is just something people haven’t had, Thai basil, too, they’re neat flavors.”

After graduating from the French Culinary Institute, Werts spent time as executive chef at Zengo in Manhattan. She also led several North Fork kitchens before an opportunity arose at Drossos Motel and Mini-Golf, the owners of which were family friends. She took over their kitchen operations six years ago and hasn’t looked back. 

Meanwhile, Ellen’s on Front opened on Front Street in Greenport just before COVID. Werts runs the kitchen operations along with just a sous chef, while Andrew — who has a day-job as a pharmaceutical consultant — runs the business and marketing side of things. 

“We get along very well because we’ve always had very, very different skills sets … she’s very gifted … and I’m good with Excel spreadsheets, and we really respect each other’s differences. I go in on the weekends and I schmooze and my sister runs the kitchen.”

This female-chef-led experience is a refreshing departure from what is a “male dominated business that’s historically been quite toxic,” Andrew said. 

But Werts said she’s had some fabulous mentors, like Chef Tom Valenti, to help her along the way.

“But I know not everyone has been so fortunate, both in the kitchen and in front of house,” said Werts. “So, as a leader here at Ellen’s on Front, I strive to make everyone feel safe and respected. No matter their gender, background, or identity. And I also get to play what I want in the kitchen, which is a LOT of Taylor Swift.”

Ellen’s on Front is located at 38 Front Street, Greenport, ellensonfront.com