The Hellenic: An Impromptu Landmark Restaurant on the North Fork

He was once the unwelcomed “Greek kid” on the North Fork. The 10-year-old son of immigrants holding a spatula instead of a baseball bat, George Giannaris was engulfed in the family’s Hellenic Snack Bar kitchen in East Marion during his formative years. The rural community wasn’t accustomed to foreigners and their strange culinary fare. What does a neighborhood of Polish lineage know of grilled octopus and creamed fish eggs in the form of a dip?

It wasn’t normal, for them, and so the torment began — Giannaris even describes a “drive-by pumpkin hurling” by some disgruntled locals, but don’t feel too sorry for him. He is a story of success, and many of his peers who once sneered at him on the streets of Greenport went on to become lifelong friends.

To call the Hellenic a “snack bar” seems an injustice, but know that this term of endearment pays homage to its humble beginnings in 1976. The establishment has matured into a bustling eatery that has literally burst at the seams — what was once a room with six stools and four tables is now an expansive indoor and outdoor space serving thousands of patrons each year.

The eatery is now run by Giannaris and his wife Maria, taking the reins from his parents and continuing the legacy of authentic Greek cuisine on the North Fork. Though Giannaris is lighthearted and genuine, there’s no nonsense in the Hellenic kitchen. There, culinary roots run deep, and he has great respect for his heritage and their recipes passed on through the ages.

The search for real-deal Greek specialties like dolmades and spanakopita is over. The Hellenic originally featured conforming selections of all-American staples like burgers and hot dogs. But soon enough the Giannaris clan made the courageous move to unearth their Greek heritage and introduced their first souvlaki, a beloved sandwich of skewered seared meat cradled in a warm, plush pita and coated in a thick tzatziki sauce. That decision led the way to a menu metamorphosis, with authentic Greek selections now filling the pages.

Founded on the trilogy of wine, grain and olive oil (yes, in that order), Greek cuisine’s origins date back almost 4,000 years. Marked by simple ingredients — lemons, fish, beans, vegetables, meats and cheeses — their use of oregano, dill and mint sets them apart from European neighbors.

At the Hellenic, you’ll feel like you’ve traveled the globe, exploring dishes like saganaki (baked Kefalograviera cheese with lemon, oregano and olive oil), moussaka (a layered dish of eggplant, ground beef and potatoes), lamb youvetsi (slowly cooked lamb shank with orzo), and baklava (a decadent dessert made with filo dough, honey and nuts).

Believe it or not, their most popular menu item is not a Greek dish at all — it’s their lemonade. A proprietary concoction of lemon, sugar, ice and water, this lip-puckering drink is frothy and refreshing — and an enigma. You’ll be contemplating the recipe for a lifetime.

Realizing over the years that the restaurant defined who he was, Giannaris decided to wear yet another hat, that of an author. He put his pen to paper, recording stories from the restaurant through two published books — Ferry Tales and Ferry Tales 2: When Hellenic Freezes Over. It dawned on him that every facet of his life was affected by the ferry — like the ebb and flow of the tide, the ferry brought customers to him and also swept them away.

Though many of the tales are downright hilarious, there are many pages that capture the heart and soul of an era. In a chapter called “The Day After,” Giannaris describes the end of the season out on the East End. It was a time to take a breath and recapture his sanity, while he sat by the ferry and watched people board, going back to work, back to school, back to reality.

With the new season on the horizon there are some new enhancements to celebrate at the Hellenic. On the sweet side of things, Giannaris has been serving up gelato for years, which had been delivered pre-packaged to his restaurant. But he had always felt it could be better — fresher, more flavorful, like the gelato he’d experienced in Europe. He discovered the only way he could achieve that level of gelato greatness was to make it himself. And so six shiny gelato machines are now churning out this decadent frozen custard made to order.

They’ve also brought on a new pastry chef who will be baking cheesecake, pastries, and their signature baklava in-house.

A list of events is in the works as well — including Greek nights, small boutique menus and an “end of the harvest” dinner celebration. And look out for the ever-popular wine pairing dinner — the newly announced date of April 5 will hit social media and their website soon.

For Giannaris, he is proud to continue the Hellenic dynasty with Maria by his side. The first line in his book says it all: “I am the son of a man who created a landmark restaurant by accident in the middle of nowhere.”

The Hellenic Restaurant is located at 5145 Main Road, East Marion. For more information, call 631-477-0138 or visit thehellenic.com.